Depending on how much money you want to spend, and how much of a "dedicated" trials bike you are aiming for, there are a wide variety of parts to choose from. We broke your options into 3 categories, pick the one that best applies to your situtation. Keep in mind these are just general guidelines, so feel free to pick and choose, depending on what your priorities are.

 

I already have a mountain bike and want to get started. You are just starting out in trials and want to tune your current bike to be a little more appropriate for trials use. The bare minimums (assuming your bike is already in good working order) would be: • Brakes: Trials requires strong braking. If your current brakes do not let you easily lock up your wheels, a tune-up or replacement would probably be needed. Realistically, any decent v-brake should work very well, provided you have clean rims and good pads. There is no need to spend hundreds of dollars on top-of-the-line brakes. • Bashring: You will definitely need a protective bashring once your skill level increases to the point where you are attacking objects larger than bottom bracket height. The bashring protects the drivetrain and allows you to rest on objects. Most bashrings are designed to cover 1 or 2 chainrings, up to about 34 teeth. • Rear tire: A larger, wider rear tire gives you more grip on objects, and also helps minimize both the chance of a pinch flat, and the shock of landing from dropoffs. • Put your seat down all the way: Give yourself as much clearance as you can. Smacking the ol' naughty bits is never enjoyable. • BMX (Flat) Pedals: Don't ride trials with SPD's. It's dangerous, especially when you are learning. Being attached to your bike is not a good idea when you need to bail. Using SPD's, you also learn to rely on your legs too much, so you don't learn the proper techniques. Price Breakdown: • Brakes: $0-$100 • Bashring: $25-$40 • Rear Tire: $20-$50 • Seat: Uh, that's free • Pedals: $25-$50

I've want to make my bike more trials specific. You have already done the things listed in the previous column, and are ready to move up to some more trials-worthy parts. • Wheelset: Wider rims, a stout hub (primarily the rear), quality straight guage spokes and good tires. All of these items will contribute to your bike's ability to withstand the abuse that trials puts on it. Getting some quality downhill-style rims (wider than 27mm) built by a professional will greatly enhance the durability of your bike. • Drivetrain: You might consider moving to a road cogset. Because of the smaller overall diameter of the cogset, you can run a shorter chain (which helps eliminate chainslap) and also generally gives you a straighter chainline. A trials chain, such as the Rohloff, would add strength to your drivetrain. • Cockpit and Control: A good wide downhill bar, with a slight rise (around 1") will help to give you more control and leverage, making it easier to pivot the bike and lift the front end. Along with this, a slightly shorter, medium rise stem can help give your bike a more appropriate trials geometry. • Rigid Fork: These give you more control over the front end of your bike, because you do not get the compression that you would with a suspension fork. This is most critical in maintaining your position by "rocking" the bike and also in pivoting the bike off the front wheel. A suspension fork also sucks up energy that would normally be transferred directly to the ground. Price Breakdown: • Wheelset: $200-$400 • Drivetrain: $30-$100 • Cockpit: $70-$150 • Rigid Fork: $50-$125

I want a full-out trials bike with all the trimmings. Cost be damned. You want a complete trials-only bike that sacrifices everyday rideability for trials performance. • Frameset/Fork: This is the heart of the bike, and most of your money should be put here. Consider a trials specific frame, such as the Brisa, Zebdi, Pashley, Orange, Crescent, Monty, Megamo, Knifen, or a custom frame. Look for features like dedicated Magura mounts, trials geometry, gusseted lightweight frame, high quality rigid fork. • Trials Only Drivetrain: Move to just one front chainring, probably 20-22 teeth. Get a corresponding bashring and remove your front derailleur and shift lever. Replace the mountain cogset with a road cogset, probably 11-21. Get a short cage derailleur, such as the XTR or SRAM 9.0. Shorten your chainline as much as possible. Get a high quality crankset and bottom bracket. Consider a shorter crankarm, such as 155-165mm. If you want to go even more extreme run a single-speed setup, where you might run a 22 tooth front ring, and a single 17-19 tooth cog in the back. Use spacers, or 1 1/4" PVC pipe cut to length to position your cog for a perfect straight chainline. Use a chain tensioner instead of a derailleur. • Quick Engagement Hubs: Hubs with a fast mechanism will let you go farther and get higher, because they do not waste any leg motion. High-end hubs are also usually lighter and stronger. Brands such as King, Industry9, Hugi and Profile are preferred. • High-end Brakes: Magura HS-33 are still the preferred rear brake. Many people are using disc brakes for the front. Hydraulic power (for eithr disc or rim brake) still seems to give the best results. You are looking for superb braking power with a minimum of hand effort. Brake boosters or braces will enhance the power, and will also help save your frame from flexing under the stresses these brakes can exert. Stainless steel cables for Maguras add strength and durability. • Lighter parts and accessories: Look for areas on the bike where you can save weight, while maintaining strength. A lighter bike will let you move and position the bike easier, get higher when pedal kicking or japslapping, and generally makes it easier to perform most skills. Seatposts, hubs, tires, handlebars and cranks can all shave quite a bit of weight from the bike. Price Breakdown: • Frameset/Fork: $600-$unlimited* • Drivetrain: $200-$500 • Hubs: $200-$400 • Brakes: $175-$325   * believe us, it can get pricey